We awoke this morning at 7:00 am with an announcement, “Good morning ladies and gentlemen. This is the Captain from the bridge. I apologize for waking you so early but I have information I need to share. The weather has changed and we now have swells and winds of 30 knots, with gusts to 50 knots. Therefore, we are unable to continue to Cuverville Island as anticipated. Instead we are adjusting course and will have a true expedition day. We will keep the decks open for now but be extremely cautious with the wet decks from the precipitation and gusting winds.”
Margo jumped out of bed and opened the door to the veranda to get a full sense of the experience. Yes, it was snowing! And the wind was howling! And the waves reminded everyone that they were in charge. It is truly indescribable.
The Captain adjusted course and we will spend the morning cruising the narrow Neumayer Channel, that has more rounded mountain spires than we have seen yet but equally covered with snow. The Captain told us to be prepared in case he has to make a quick 180-degree turn if something is blocking the channel. We assume that means an iceberg. Meanwhile he is only 100 to 150 feet away from the mountains.
The expedition leader adjusted the schedule to include more conversations with expedition team members, trivia was added to the schedule, and the expedition team members are located on various decks to provide narrative to passengers who dared to brave the elements. As one team member says, “It’s never really cold if you’re properly equipped.”
Margo went to the 9:30 yoga class. Facing the windows watching the majestic range of ice covered land and mountains was a truly spiritual experience. At one point, as she looked up during Sun Salutation and, there was a huge block of sea ice right outside the window. How do you describe it? It was pure nature, with this human being left to feel like but a speck of sand on a beach. Her heart still beats a bit fast 3 hours later just remembering it.
As we write this we were moving towards the Lemaire Channel. The expedition leader came on and said our way is blocked with ice so the Captain is turning the ship around.
We have decided that Antarctica is an experience that cannot be conveyed to others in writing or through pictures. The barren contrast between the snow and the exposed parts of mountains is something to behold and just take into your every being. The beauty is endless and never repeats.
The captain is cruising around like he is on a Sunday ride in the countryside. We are at least two days from the nearest refueling station. We sure hope he as an accurate fuel gauge.